Agriculture Topics | Weston Opinion | wvnews.com

2022-07-02 13:02:58 By : Mr. Andy Yang

Thunderstorms likely, especially this morning. Storms may contain strong gusty winds. High 84F. Winds light and variable. Chance of rain 80%..

Partly cloudy skies this evening will become overcast overnight. A stray shower or thunderstorm is possible. Low 64F. Winds light and variable.

Although electric fence has been around for many years, developments in fencing over the past 20 years or so have made it even more popular and useful. High

tensile electric is cheaper to build than standard woven wire or barb wire fences, partly because it takes fewer posts.

The most important issue for electric fences to work is they must have plenty of voltage. Electric fences are not a physical barrier, they are a physiological barrier. In general, electric fences should carry minimum of 1600 to 2000 volts for cattle, 3000 volts minimum on electric netting for sheep and goats and 4000+ volts on high tensile fence for sheep/goats. If you are trying to control deer with electric fence, the voltage should probably be 3000+.

Most modern chargers will easily put this much voltage, or more, on fences provided they are properly grounded. The full capacity of the charger will not be utilized unless there is a good ground system in place. A general rule of thumb says to install a minimum of 3 feet of ground rod per joule of energizer output capacity. For example, if I have a 15-joule energizer, this requires 45 feet of ground rods.

Generally either galvanized or copper rods in 6 to 8 foot lengths are used. This energizer would require 6 to 8 ground rods depending upon if a 6 or 8-foot ground rod was used. Ground rods should be driven in their full length, or if rocky soils don't permit this, driven them in at an angle.

Ground rods should be at least 10 feet apart and 40 to 50 feet away from any other existing grounds. Ground rods should be tied together in a system, connected with wire between rods. Try to locate ground rods in an area that is likely to stay moist. Northern exposures under building drip lines often work well.

When buying a charger, this is not the place to cut budget corners. Size the charger to handle your current fencing system, plus some room for growth. There are many ways to evaluate chargers, but one method is to look at output in joules. Also remember that when a product is advertised by the miles of fence it can energize, this includes one wire. If multiple wires are energized, these must be added together. Three strands of high tensile wire around a mile perimeter with all 3 strands energized accounts for 3 miles of energized wire.

Finally, evaluate the fence itself. Remember that as the diameter of the fence wire decreases, there is more resistance to push electric current around the fence.

Polywire is very handy stuff but it should not be used to carry the charge long distances. Use high tensile wire to carry the charge and for perimeter fencing and polywire to hook on to the high tensile wire for internal paddock divisions. You should also be aware that if barbed wire is used in an electric fence system, each of those barbs is siphoning off some of the electricity and efficiency is reduced. Voltage will be dropping in the fence as distance and amount of fence increases.

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